Sunday, August 31, 2008

Where to go and what do in Aspen

Published in the New-York Times

APRÈS SOMEONE ELSE'S SKIING
With alpenglow illuminating the Wheeler Opera House (1889) and the Elks Building dome (1891), saunter through this 19th-century Victorian mining town, while enjoying the crisp mountain air and window shopping at stores like Fendi (fur flip-flops?). Though you didn't earn it, join the après ski action at the 39 Degrees Lounge in the Sky Hotel, where a young, windburned crowd gathers by a crackling fire in wool hats to watch Teton Gravity Research movies on flat-screen TVs. The footage of death-defying flips is a perfect way to get revved up. So are the drinks, including the Botox martinis ($10, Red Bull included) and the Rita Deluxe made with Julio 1942 tequila and Grand Marnier 150 ($45).

FRESH MUSICAL TRACKS
Aspen offers a wide variety of night life in a few tightly packed streets, from South American frat boy-types playing pool at Eric's Bar, to the fun-fur wearing Euros at the members-only Caribou Club. But for live music go to the Belly Up Aspen. Formerly the Double Diamond, the space was gutted and renovated two years ago with a new sound system and lighting — even the bathrooms are now clean. Ben Harper, Method Man, Dwight Yoakam, Jurassic 5 and Seal have all played this 450-seat club.

APRÈS SCHUSSING SHOPPING
Aspen has been called, and sometimes not so lovingly, Rodeo Drive East. The one global fashion temple to check out is Prada (312 South Galena Street, 970-925-7001) for its sleek clothes and rustic-chic modern mountain design of luxurious woods and stone. People frequently ask the name of the architect of the Prada shop (Roberto Baciocchi of Arezzo, Italy) and then head to Performance Ski (408 South Hunter Street, 970-925-8657), where the co-owner Lee Keating and the latest crop of snowboard dudes will give you honest answers on how those Prada pants actually fit. A very pleasant place to curl up in an old leather club chair is Explore Booksellers and Bistro(221 East Main Street, 970-925-5338), a warren of book- laden rooms, a vegetarian restaurant and a coffeehouse. For housewares, head to Amen Wardy Home(210 South Galena Street, 970-920-7700); the merchandise is so unusual (whimsical house gifts to fur blankets for a few thousand dollars), that it's worth shipping home.

SPA DECADENCE
To take care of those aching muscles, hobble over to the 15,000-square-foot Remède Spa at the St. Regis Resort (315 East Dean Street, 970-920-6783; www.remede.com). A customized 60-minute massage is $155; 60-minute facials are $165. All treatments end with something that sounds a little zany but is actually relaxing: a stop at a cozy parlor where white-robed spagoers lie on chaise lounges and strap on air masks, inhaling oxygen infused with fresh fruit essences. Prosecco and chocolates also provided.

Find out more about your Aspen Vacation with 5 Star Destinations.